Okay, quick—think of your favorite writer/director/Himalayan
Buddhist monk of the last half-decade. Got it? Well, dollars to
dharma you’re picturing Khyentse Norbu. (Or
Richard Gere, in which case, stop it.)
Norbu, who was brought up in monasteries in the Himalayan kingdom
of Bhutan and calls Bernardo Bertolucci, (for whom
he worked on 1993’s Little Buddha,) “almost
like my film guru,” enjoyed international success at Cannes
with his 1999 feature debut Phorpa (The Cup),
which he wrote and directed. The film tells the lighthearted story
of World Cup fever at a monastery, and employed a cast composed
almost entirely of Butanese monks. Norbu’s back now—and
he’s still keeping it in the family.
His second feature, Travellers And Magicians,
is a mystical and sweeping tale of love, longing, and choice, made
all the more mystical and sweeping by its sumptuous setting. Bhutan’s
natural resources, from mountain range to ingénue, are on
full display in what is a simple, lovely, if somewhat familiar-looking
story. The actors, again, are almost without exception untrained
Bhutanese newcomers, but do not seem uncomfortable in the least.
The camerawork is a bit deliberate at times, but solid. The cinematography
is effortlessly stunning. This isn’t the flashiest or most
daring movie out there—there are no flying daggers or soaring
wire-stunts in this one to salve the short-attention-spanned, but
it is a movie in earnest, and those are hard to come by.
Norbu’s visually enchanting homeland provides an enveloping
cradle for the stories of two men, both dissatisfied with their
lives, both primed for escape. Dondup (Dendup),
a young government officer in the small village of Khumbar, has
a seemingly peaceful and secure life and a respected position among
his fellow townspeople. He is interminably bored, however, and imagines
something vastly different for himself: a life of opportunity, wealth
and excitement in America. When a long-awaited letter from a stateside
friend presents the window he needs, he bolts through it, and soon
finds himself making his way across the countryside with rather
mismatched group—a spirited and particularly canny monk, an
apple peddler, and an old paper-maker and his lovely daughter. As
the journey becomes long, the monk offers a story to entertain his
companions—and perhaps counsel a particularly impetuous dreamer
among them. (Enter wistful Bhutanese boy #2.) The monk proceeds
to weave the (cautionary?) tale of Tashi (Dorji),
a dispassionate, girl-chasing student of magic, likewise restless
for adventure and change. Though a trick of his more astute younger
brother Karma, Tashi is whisked away to a world that is an uncertain
blend of fantasy and reality, where he finds himself at the center
of a swirling cloud of sex, betrayal, deception, murder, and generally
more than he bargained for. And that’s when things really
start to pick up.
This film is good—very good, actually: sensitive, engaging,
quirkily funny in parts, capably directed and acted (the peskily
perceptive monk steals the show.) Couple these with the understanding
that the driving creative force behind the story and the whole of
the cast are, by industry standards, positively sopping behind the
ears, and the film becomes doubly impressive. Add to this the knowledge
that Travellers marks only the second international picture
to come out of the entire country, and it becomes a landmark. Viewed
outside of these contexts, though, as it undoubtedly will be by
many, it remains a well-done version of a story that’s been
told a few times. The stories of Dondup and Tashi are compelling,
but familiar. Even the magical realism bits have come to be expected,
though there is an especially effective (and eerie) moment toward
the end of Tashi’s story. Overall, Travellers is
certainly worth seeing, but once or twice may be enough. Perhaps
the most noteworthy aspect of the film is that it signals the further
development of a rather bold “young” voice. In his sophomore
wide-release effort, Khyentse Norbu has dealt earnestly with the
deepest matters of the heart, crafted at least one very memorable
character, significantly advanced the Bhutanese film movement he
helped to conceive, and even squeezed a few belly laughs into a
very big-hearted, perceptively human film.
—Brian Villalobos